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I quite enjoyed all the pungency you’d expect from cempedak in the rich, velvety cream piped atop the slice of Min Jiang Kueh which was more akin in texture to Bika Ambon. The refreshing salted coconut ice cream also went brilliantly with the heavier elements, and all in all, this was quite the successful marriage of beloved local flavours. I’m very much looking forward to their next venture, whether it be a popup or more permanent spot.
It was refreshing to see Singaporean-inspired desserts on the menu. Of course, they came with Focal's own unique twist, such as this riff on kueh salat which sees pandan custard replaced by corn. Each slice is brushed with smoked maple and brown butter glaze. I think a hint of salt as a counterpoint to the sweetness would have made this even better, but the soothing hot corn tea served alongside complemented the kueh very well as it is.
The fatty Hokkaido Snow Pork lent itself well to being grilled on the barbecue. Perfectly cooked, the fat to meat ratio was to my liking, and the unabashedly flavour-forward combination of coffee oil and chicken jus that graced the protein only served to amplify its savouriness. On it's side sat a pile of crunchy you mai cai that had a delicious smokiness from spending some time on the grilled. This was topped with an intriguing dehydrated celeraic "katsuobushi".
Watching the chef duo meticulously prep the separate elements before assembling the dish from our front row seat into the open kitchen only heightened our anticipation for the final product. Masterfully tossed wok-fried premium Japanese Koshikari rice, fragrant with the aroma of ulam herbs, was the main component of the dish presented in a large claypot. I felt it was under-seasoned however, although that was probably due in part to me not following instructions to break apart and mix in the piece of barbecued Ebodai(Butter fish) . Which personally I feel, would have been a waste as it's exquisitely glorious melt-in-your-mouth texture and buttery flavour would have been muted amongst the grains.
The duo of young chefs here have a storied pedigree, both hailing from acclaimed Whitegrass and Magic Square, with separate stints in Odette and Naked Finn. Their fine dining experience is evident in our first appetiser - practically an amuse bouche - a powerhouse of flavours crammed atop miniscule squares of crisp brioche. The freshness of the raw fish melded with the lush richness of crab fat spread for an intensely umami single bite. What an excellent start indeed.
Drawing flavours from around the world and applying it in our local context, @restaurantfocal.sg 's "Progressive Singaporean" cuisine certainly intrigues the palate, what with left-field combinations such as Laksa leaf pesto and Chalet D'Alpage Cheese. The former cedes slightly into the background due to the latter's potent pungency, but nonetheless worked well as a whole on the tender if slightly dry frog legs.