Ovenbird (City Gate)

Like a comforting yet elevated home dinner prepared by self-taught chef Jeffrey, Ovenbird was everything I expected and more. The casual one-man restaurant was like a gem hidden in the quiet basement of City Gate. As the sole solo dinner there that evening (I secured the slot very last minute as I chanced upon it just days before; truly a very spontaneous dinner plan for me), chef Jeffrey was a very gracious and attentive host, making sure I left rolling and was bursting at the seams from the Autumn menu ($165).

🐟[Hokkaido Herring (Nishin) vinegared for 2 days & Steamed Monkfish Liver (Ankimo)]

-A great starter to whet one’s appetite; the distinctive, mild salty, oily fish flavour of the herring was superbly balanced. The Chinese monkfish liver steamed with sake broth was also wonderfully done as its meaty texture was two thumbs up! And I love that the mild sweetness came without a trace of fishiness.

🐟[Fried Hokkaido Monkfish Fillets (Anko Karaage)]

-Pretty greasy but the sliced Hiroshima Sudachi helped cut the richness. It was my first-time having monkfish fillets, so the firm, plump, muscular texture was a nice surprise.

🐟[Hokkaido Prowfish (Bouzo Ginnpo) aged 9 days, marinated in Sakekasu & Saikyomiso | Ceps/French Porcini and Girolles Mushrooms]

-Brilliant combination, the little East-meets-West number was so tangy and delicious. Similar to cod, the Prowfish was tender, moist and a fantastic blend of firm-flakey. And oh wow, the crisp crunchy fish skin was so good. Slightly boozy, the alcohol-infused cream sauce was stellar too with the bits of earthy fresh French mushrooms.

🐟[Salted Grilled Kanagawa Beltfish aged 8 days (Tachiuou Shioyaki)]

-Spritzed with sake, the grilled beltfish was a simple and satisfying dish. Not grilled all the way through, the seasoned slice was charmingly fatty and soft.

🐟[Grilled Tsushima Mackerel (Ma Saba) vinegared for 3 days wrapped in nori]

-With the slightly pungent yet bright floral taste of the fresh-grated wasabi to tie all the elements together, the wrap really highlighted the delicate briny flavours of the mackerel.

🐟[Hokkaido Japanese Amberjack Loin (Buri) aged 5 days & Ibaraki Radish (Daikon)]

-Whilst braised radish will always have a special place in my heart, the buri was marvellous, aged amberjack at its finest - melty, fatty, perfectly seasoned thick slices with beautiful crisp seared skin. Though flavours were prominently the very familiar, umami soy-sauce dashi base.

🐟[Prawn Shaped Taro (Ebi Imo), Sakuna Pumpkins (Kabu) and Black Hen of the Woods Mushrooms (Kuro Maitake) simmered in Summer Unagi Eel Sauce, Coho Salmon]

-At this point, I was ready to call it a day but I pushed on. The ebi-imo with its intriguing texture was rather firm, not all that fibrous and none too sweet. A hearty autumn dish with sweet pumpkin and salmon bathing in a slight herbaceous sauce.

🐟[Miyagi Shiogama Blue Fin Tuna (Hon Maguro), Grilled Shimonita Leeks (Negi), Marinated Salmon Roe Sacs (Sujiko), Ibaraki Smoked Daikon Pickles (Iburi-gakko) with Sushi Rice (shari)]

-Going over the top with his idea of a ‘cai peng’ - calling it ‘2 meat 1 veg’; the exquisite bowl was a treat. Apart from the boozy Sujiko which was a bit too much for me, the elements were great. The roughly cut Maguro was amazing - high-quality buttery texture. In place of wasabi, the charred leeks were insanely sharp and kinda spicy yet moreish. And wah, the crunchy, smokey daikon pickles that came in mid-way during the meal was the best part. The unique smoky aroma was so shiok - full-bodied, savoury with a hint of sweetness.

🍐[Seasonal Fruits - Le Lectier & Le France Pears]

Wouldn’t have ever thought to lightly poach sashimi in a soup. Leveling up the usual fish soup with ultra fresh and tender spanish mackerel and a touch of miso

Hearty end to the meal. Japanese beef curry made from scratch with his own roux, with creaminess from a dollop of an entire raw egg