European Eats

European Eats

Featuring Spago by Wolfgang Puck, Firebake - Woodfired Bakehouse & Restaurant, JAAN by Kirk Westaway, Les Amis, LeVeL 33, Odette (National Gallery Singapore), Iggy's, The Dempsey Cookhouse & Bar, OLA Cocina del Mar, Saint Pierre (One Fullerton)
Veronica Phua
Veronica Phua

(Hosted) At first glance, all seems to be the same at the ever elegant Three MICHELIN-Starred @lesamisrestaurant. But look a little closer and you will notice that the wallpaper has been replaced by fresh white marble powdered walls that are beguilingly cool to the touch and that you feel comfortably cool anywhere you are seated thanks to a new air-conditioning system. Lighting has also been re-designed to enhance the look and feel of the space. And in the Private Dining Room overlooking the kitchen, there is a custom-built, state-of-the-art cellar to hold their retail stock which includes French cheese, caviar from @kavisri_paris caviar (Les Amis is one of their biggest customers in the world) and the restaurant’s own line of housemade ice-creams.
Naturally, Executive Chef Sebastien Lepinoy has given their menu a revamp too. My host, Merissa Goh who heads Marketing and P.R. for the restaurant, and I had the “Le Menu ÉtĂ© Classique” ($375++ per pax) for lunch. With recommended pairings by Sommelier Fabien and the always top-notch service by Manoj Sharmahm and the team, it was nothing short of exceptional. Here is how it went:

1. CanapĂ©s and amuse bouche - Smoothly paced out were three stellar variations of the seasonal “Le Jardin de Rabeleis” tomato starting with a bavarois with bell pepper on an airy-light cheese puff pastry. The second, a favourite of mine and Merissa’s, had the tomato confit in extra virgin olive oil and seasoned in basil and thyme. The final variation was a chilled veloute that layered tomato soup seasoned with peppercorn and EVVO and cucumber in jelly and diced form. It came with a cute anchovy and basil croissant.

2. Bread and Butter - The legendary bread trolley of Les Amis does not quite fit in the Private Dining Room so a tray was brought in. I adored all the breads but the Sea Salt Brioche stole the biggest chunk of my heart. It’s so buttery it didn’t need any of the creamy and clean-tasting @beillevaire unpasteurised butter but that’s fine - more to spread on the other breads 😋😋.

3. Caviar - Resident Caviar Master Patrick Esteves had me hyperventilating with his trio of kaviari_paris caviar. Seems my visit couldn’t be more timely as the new Italian Sevruga caviar of which Les Amis has the lion’s share globally, had just arrived too. Patrick scooped generous helpings of each on mother-of-pearl spoons for us to savour in this sequence: the Oscietre (most briny), the Kristal (creamy and nutty) and the Sevruga (these tiny pearls which were the most complex and intense in flavour, comes from sturgeon fish found only in the waters of Italy).

4. “L’Ɠuf pochĂ© en robe verte au caviar, navets glacĂ©s” - The other reason for the caviar sampling exercise was so I could choose one (I went for the Sevruga) to add to Chef Sebastien’s stunning new dish. A spin on an old classic that culinary students had to learn to perfect, it featured an immaculate poached egg with a “fountain of watercress” and crunchy turnip beneath.

5. French Sea Bass - Prepared in the Japanese-style of Ikejime to ensure its flesh is at its peak of tenderness and flavour, the fish was covered in paper-thin slices of mushrooms and served in MariniĂšre sauce, surrounded by succulent mussels from the Mont-Saint-Michel Bay.

6. Wagyu Tenderloin - I found this utterly fabulous as the buttery tender beef was given brightness and crunch through a layer of aromats (think capers, mixed bell peppers, shallots and crispy onion rings). Enhancing the dish even more were a natural beef jus, the sweetest French carrots and salad of mixed herbs.

7. Cheese - After Resident Cheese Master Manoj presented the best of the season’s selection, we trusted him to curate a plate for us. And as always, it was perfect especially when accompanied by @chef_sebastien_lepinoy’s olive oil, some freshly baked bread (I love the new round fig rolls!) and the “off dry wine” Fabien chose.

8. Ice-cream - The flavours served in the restaurant are different from those you can buy to take home. So I had the Yogurt, the Pineapple & Rum (this had a strong alcoholic kick) and the Mixed Herbs with Lemon (very bold, it had quite a face-puckering effect on me - amazing palate cleanser though).

9. Dessert - A new creation, the almond-sprinkled Almond SoufflĂ© with Cherries Jubilee (cherries in kirsch liqueur) and almond ice-cream was spectacular. I’d say it’s the best soufflĂ© I’ve had there.

10. Petit Fours - Our 4-hour lunch came to a reluctant close in the loveliest way with in-season apricot tarts, canelés and housemade milk and dark chocolates.

Thank you so much Merissa for the invitation and for gracing me with your company.

(Hosted)
As it is inspired by Head Chef @cheffernandoarevalo’s journey as he seeks perfection in culinary art, referencing in particular the critical decisions he has to make from start to finish, the menu is designed as a fork in the road with diners having to choose between the themes of “Capture” and “Release”. While the former is inward-seeking with the essence of ingredients presented in precise minimalist fashion, the latter embodies the possibilities to maximise their fullest potential. When dining as a group, the entire table can’t differ in their menu choice. We couldn’t decide but fortunately, @preludio.sg has a solution on standby. My friend @renztan did the honour and fate dealt us “Capture”. Immediately, a centrepiece reflecting this theme was placed on our table. Fresh, charcoal-baked corn bread was close on its tail, a stellar kogarashi and spring onion butter in tow.
Then came the essences of “Smoke, Scallop and Butter” on an elegant tray. I was most taken with the novel brown butter ice-cream on oyster leaf covered in hazelnut crumble and French black truffle. The morel mushroom looked simple but with brocollini, spiced rub and preserved Amalfi lemon, it tasted anything but. The third bite was interesting as smoked caviar, Japanese cucumber, potato blini and yoghurt were encased in a crisp sugar shell.
To complement, @markyyw brought out a Greek wine. He took care of the wine pairing that evening and my group of ladies who know a thing or two about vino (I’m looking at you specifically @linosaur), were really pleased with his pours.
The next course was a divine double act of caviar dressed with drops of twenty-five-year-old balsamic vinegar and am amazing venison tartare with rice crisps, eggplant and clarified tomato water.
Following that, a dish that recalls the awe and wonder Chef Fernando had as a child, of the ocean. As he’s originally from Bogota in central Colombia, it was a magical moment for him. Sea urchin, chervil root and a consommĂ© were what he used to capture this memory.
Conceptually and taste-wise, the pasta course was sensational. As perfectly cooked as the Brittany Blue Lobster was, it was the SINGLE STRAND of pasta THREE AND A HALF METRES LONG coiled next to it that had me floored. What’s more, Lin and I managed to eat our respective strands in one continuous, unbroken slurp, aided by the glorious sauce. So proud to have done justice to Chef Fernando’s efforts (he’d shared that since Preludio opened, there’s never been a harder dish to make).
The Turbot was my other favourite and plated with it, sweet slices of French Oudard pears, onion purĂ©e, cauliflower and a smooth creamy mash that’s actually rice with saffron.
Chef de Cuisine @stefanliau popped out of the kitchen to explain the “Crimson” which had delectable Wagyu beef finished with a mustard and red wine glaze, and topped with crunchy quinoa and almond flakes.
After we polished off the delightful palate cleanser, “breakfast” followed. This whimsical creation by Pastry Chef @elena_pdc was an “egg” with mango and passionfruit for a yolk, and coconut jelly as the egg white. Beneath was a lime sponge. The bits of broken “egg shell” on the side were actually white chocolate. We were completely captivated.
Her impeccable flair and finesse were on full display again in the second dessert - a sculptural scrumptiousness of white chocolate, earl grey, dulce de leche and cornflakes milk ice-cream.
Naturally, Chef Elena’s petit fours were nothing short of exquisite. While I liked the matcha yuzu tart and salted caramel cinnamon cake a lot, it was the orange marmalade cookie and coconut chocolate bonbon that I adored. It’s so cool she managed to pop out of the kitchen to do a quick FaceTime chat with @heyrozz and their mutual friend in Mexico.

Thank you again Team @preludio.sg for hosting us and @gastrosense PR for the invitation.

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Because it is, literally, a sliver of space - just enough to shoehorn in a counter with a row of seats for customers, and a kitchen for @chef_y.doi_bistrotetroitsg (heaven forbids he ever gains weight 😅). But truth be told, the walls melt away into darkness, so all attention and eyes are drawn to where light is concentrated - the stage for Chef Doi-san’s one-man culinary performance. And really, isn’t that the point when one visits @BistrotEtroit? To watch him prepare his take on French cuisine (with brief soliloquies thrown in) and to savour each course as they arrive? I certainly think so.
Anyway, after slightly more than two months since I secured our online booking, @huatkaliao and I finally had dinner there last Tuesday. Lucky us even had the whole restaurant to ourselves. Reason being Chef Doi-san only accepts 7 customers a day (this is based on the amount of prep he needs to do), and that evening’s first seating already saw 5 in attendance.
Having Chef Doi-san all to ourselves was like striking the jackpot. I could bounce around freely to take my photos and videos, as well as pepper him with questions (I only hope is that I wasn’t too irritating 😆).
As for what we ate, well, no surprises that I picked Bistro Course A ($120+) for us because it has more food 😁
The complimentary starter of wasabi-flavoured cauliflower mousse with sea urchin was a delicious blend of subtle sweetness and stealthy heat.
After which, we crammed our faces with sourdough and brioche, also made by Chef Doi-san, just like everything else. They were so good spread with his uni and white miso butter.
We enjoyed a refreshing and well-balanced carpaccio next, starring silky slices of young bluefin tuna from Toyosu Market.
Wherever the menu listed options, I selected different items for us, so greedy me could try a wider variety. Thus, for our second appetiser, it was a pair of large, very juicy white asparagus with mimolette cheese, an onsen egg and truffle vinaigrette sauce, and a confit of natural yellowtail that I picked. As lovely as the seasonal asparagus was, I preferred the latter because the texture of that thick-cut fish was unbelievable! Through some crafty sorcery, It was bestowed with the most mind-blowing mouthfeel and flavour.
We were also really impressed by the fish course that came after. Instead of its signature crispy scales, the amadai had a thin cheese crust and was served with mushrooms in a pool of “sauce Albert”. According to Chef Doi-san, this classic sauce is named after the General Manager of the famous “Maxim de Paris” restaurant. A white wine and veal glaze amalgamation, its lip-smacking quality drove us to use the last of the bread to wipe our plates clean of it.
We were very pleased to have heeded Chef’s recommendation for our main course. The Hokkaido A4 grade Wagyu Striploin was done to perfection. I was initially distracted by its naked tastiness but when the accompanying red wine sauce was poured on, I nearly fell off my chair. Such was its swoonworthiness.
After seeing Chef Doi-san’s Beef Tongue Curry Rice appear in a couple of Instagram Stories, I was very keen to give it a try regardless of whatever else we ate.
The humble looking dish turned out to be a revelation! Instead of the typical yellow hue, the fork-tender chunks of tongue were stewed in a deep brown Japanese curry, its colour derived from a red wine sauce. Finished with toasted almond flakes, it was also spiked with a “secret ingredient” of coffee powder.
For dessert, I chose for us the tarte tatin that came with a show-stealing housemade cinnamon caramel ice-cream, and Chef Doi-san’s seasonal dessert, a gluten-free cheese terrine that was wonderfully light and moist.

Verdict: I enjoyed dinner so much, I can’t wait to return for Bistrot Etroit’s Summer Menu!

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G I F T
A few years ago, I was recommended by my French acquaintance Steve Desobeau, to try @fleurdesel_sg on Tras Street, opened by his friend, @chefalexandrelozachmeur. But somehow, I never got around to it, so when the restaurant messaged me recently about sending dinner, I didn’t think twice about saying yes.
Our meal began with a fabulous homemade Foie Gras Terrine to be savoured with onion marmalade on brioche toast. It’s rich and the portion was large, so there was plenty to go around.
Although I enjoyed the sweetness of the ocean’s bounty in the Seafood Boullabaisse (it was served with rouille garlic toast), the Lobster Bisque was the soup that wow-ed me more. A little creamier, it hummed powerfully with the glorious note of that single crustacean.
I was also very taken with the hugely tasty dish of Seared Hokkaido Scallops. Plump and juicy, they were presented on deliciously braised leek with a black truffle chicken sauce. SO GOOD.
I‘ve always been a sucker for beef tongue and have eaten it in different preparation styles but this was the first time I had it cut in such large cubes. And oh man, did they taste marvelous! Cooked with gherkins and baby potatoes in tomato sauce, the large meaty pieces were simultaneously chewy and tender - amazing! If you enjoy tongue, you need to try this.
I realise duck leg confit is pretty commonplace these days but Fleur De Sel’s classic version with its intensely crispy skin and saltyish-in-a-good-way flavour, was impeccably executed. Loved it with the sauteed baby potatoes and lip-smacking mustard sauce. It’s another dish I’d order again at the drop of a hat.
Their Beef Cheek Bourguignon, the epitome of rustic French comfort food, was equally wonderful. Simmered with the pieces of tender meat were strips of bacon, carrots, mushrooms, it was a well balanced stew. In addition, there was a swoon-worthy silky buttery mash to round it off.
A French meal should naturally include a cheese platter, and the restaurant put together a really attractive one with four kinds of French cheese, grapes, dried apricot and walnuts.
Dinner ended on a strong note and I mean that quite literally because the unassuming-in-appearance Rum Baba was potent in alcohol. Paired with the vanilla whipped cream, this dessert had me whimpering in happiness.

You can savour @fleurdesel_sg’s expertly done French classic dishes at home because they are still doing delivery via the popular platforms of Grab Food, Food Panda.

Thank you again Chef Alexandre and Team Fleur De Sel for the generous treat.

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Post-Circuit Breaker and Phase 1 Odette crackles with startling energy. From service to food, there‘s a palpable sense of eager exuberance. And that translated into what I will state for the record as the very best meal I have had at Odette to date.
As usual, nothing matters more to me than how the food tastes, and throughout that evening, flawlessness prevailed in every course at this Three MICHELIN Stars restaurant, which so happens to be sitting pretty at No. 1 on “Asia’s 50 Best” list this year and last. Chef Julien and his team certainly brought their A game and then some.
Dinner commenced with Grignotages which comprised of a modern, elegant gougĂšre with comte cheese, a delicate smoked aubergine tartlette and house-cured sardine cradled in a crisp shell.
The Signature Mushroom Tea with Cep Sabayon blanketed by Manjimup truffles followed. I enjoyed the hit of deliciously-prepared earthy aromas very much.
When the breads appeared, I almost shed a tear of joy, and went at them like my life depended upon, alternating between the very special olive oil and whipped butter to enjoy them with.
Arriving next was Marukyo Uni to be partaken in two ways, with spot prawn tartare and Kristal caviar on a mussel cloud, and a dainty sandwich. I did as told - to start with the former, move on to the latter then return to finish the former. To say this course stunned would not be inaccurate.
Sous Chef Naka Xiong presented the cold Hokkaido scallop with horseradish, dill, and sago seaweed cracker, a dish that silenced our table with its exquisiteness.
It was then General Manager Steven’s turn to play “rainmaker” as he shaved a truckload of truffle over what I term a “Thicc French Onion Soup”, a delectable concoction of caramelly-sweet Cevenne onions, 40-months-aged Parmesan, Amontillado sherry and croutons.
The Limosin Veal Sweetbread (thymus or pancreas of a calf or lamb) which Chef Julien himself brought into our room, was a revelation. Simply roasted with garlic and thyme, and plated with vinjus sauce with a touch of sherry vinegar, it was easily the most delicious rendition I’ve eaten in a long, long time. Apportioned just right, the richness of the sweetbread was countered by a crunchy finish and the sauce. This is the kind of dish that can tip into “jelak” territory in a blink of an eye, so it has to be prepared with sensitivity. There’s no doubt Team Odette delivered.
Anyone who likes crustaceans would be blown away by the Langoustine and Foie Gras Ravioli. And the accompanying sauce, a lavish Laphroaig whisky-laced potion, left us gobsmacked.
I was particularly happy with the grilled Kinki fish plated with tempura zucchini flower and girolles mushrooms that was served next. Again, it was the fantastic sauce that floored me.
Before dinner began, during my chat with Chef Julien, I’d told him I wanted to replace the lamb course if there was one (yes, at that point, none of us knew what he had planned for our menu). But the good man convinced me to give it a try. So I did. Zero regrets. Although there was still a hint of gaminess, I hardly noticed because the perfectly cooked Axuria Lamb Saddle was shockingly smooth and flavourful. The Purple Artichoke, the Menton Lemon and the Jus “TranchĂ©â€ contributed significantly to my overall enjoyment of the dish too.
When the cheese cart arrived, I couldn’t not indulge in a wedge of the Brie with Truffle and Walnuts, Comte and the sexy-stinky Aged Epoisses. They went well with the mini truffle-topped salad. You bet I was on cloud nine by this point.
The palate cleanser, a precise perfection starring muscat grapes was otherworldly good. So good, one portion wasn’t enough.
Not only were beautiful produce of white peaches from Fukuoka and raspberries used by Pastry Chef Louisa Lim in her dessert but the flavours and textures were artfully combined to the nth degree. I loved it.
Bringing our spectacular meal to a splendid end were petit fours of a lychee and raspberry Ice-lollipop, traditional Canele, sweet Japanese Melon, French Cherries and Chocolate Tart with shaved Tonka Bean.
Odette’s take-home gift, a lovely jam based on Chef Julien’s grandmother’s recipe, is always a welcome treat and a lovely way to extend memories of a meal there by a few days.
In case you are wondering, the total bill for each of us that night came to close to $550 per person inclusive of the two bottles of red wine recommended by Sommelier Vincent. Yes, it’s very expensive but I felt it’s worth every cent.

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G I F T E D
When Chef-owner @aitortxuchef of One-MICHELIN Starred @basquekitchenbyaitor slides into your DMs whispering the magic words to the effect of “let me feed you”, you whoop out loud and give praise.
And when the feast arrives, your jaw meets floor because it exceeds your expectations.
This godsend of a meal comprised of:

1. Basque Charcuterie Platter - The Txorizo and Bayonne Ham (100gms for $25 nett) made the journey without a slice out of place.

2. Artisanal Cheese Platter ($25 nett for 100gms) - There were four: French-Basque Ossau Iraty, Basque Idiazabal, French Sante Maure and South-Central French Bleu D’Auvergne. They came with quince jelly and slices of fruit bread.

3. Iberico Pork Ribs ($38 nett for 500gms) - THE must-have. Coated in a sticky honey glaze, the slow-cooked ribs were tender and irresistibly delicious.

4. Turbot “Salsa Verde” (150gms - $48 nett) - Possibly the healthiest item in that day’s spread as the fish was poached. The sauce was mild, not as acidic or spicy as its name suggests.

5. “Txipirones En Su Tinta” - If you have been following me on Instagram or @Burpple for a while, you’d know I have a soft spot for squid. So this dish which had the squid stuffed with minced meat and onions, and cooked in a sauce of its own ink, was easily one of my favourites. It even came with a side of rice.

6. “Tortilla di Patatas” (100gms for $16 nett) - A thick, soft potato and egg “pancake” that I most enjoyed with the...
7. Piquillo Peppers “Lodosa” ($12 nett) - So silky was the confit peppers from Navarra (medieval Basque Country).

8. Iberico Txorizo Sliders - I was besotted with the baby burgers. Who wouldn’t when you slap juicy, spicy pork patties between impossibly light, soft buns? All house-made, no less.

9. Pipperada ($12 nett) - A traditional Basque tomato and pepper sauce.

10. Classic Mash Potato ($12 nett) - Smooth and silky, like good mash should be.

11. Burnt Basque Cheesecake ($16 nett) - Baked with Idiazabal cheese, this was sublime. So sublime I didn’t want to share it.

You can have a meal just as stupendous at home by ordering it at:

https://basquekitchenbyaitor.oddle.me/en_SG

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This corn was something else. Having been seasoned with smoked ricotta cheese and black pepper, those sweet kernels boldly danced away on our tongues. Easily the unanimous favourite.

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If you are a fan of anchovies, the PissaladiĂšre or caramelised onions and anchovy tart is sure to please you like it pleased me. The crust of the one here is a little more cushiony than crisp and flaky, so it can be pretty substantial. I like that they have black olives strewn on as well. Their delicious saltiness is what I am always hoping to hit.

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Worth every cent this was. And at $17++, it’s not even pricey to begin with.
The Spanish Suckling Pig, a special item available on the Sunday we visited, was chockfull of chopped pistachios, Swiss chard, spinach, pork liver, cured pork fat, marjoram, parsley and chervil. As crisp and tender as the encircling skin and meat were respectively, it was the stuffing that I was more captivated by. Properly seasoned (unlike some places that are reticent about committing to such an important part of what makes or breaks a dish), it was moist and superbly flavourful.
If you like pork and happen to spot the Porchetta when you visit, I suggest giving it a try.

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It’s only been a couple of weeks since @bbrbyalainducasse officially opened at the iconic Raffles Hotel but based on our lunch there last Sunday, it feels like they have settled in very nicely.
I use to visit this venue in its previous incarnation of the “Bar & Billiard Room” quite often, mostly for their buffets. It certainly looks and feels like a different world now as the space is much brighter being predominantly white with accents of reds, copper and gold.
I like how the menu at BBR is designed to cater for whatever you are in the mood for, including a few of their signatures grouped into a Tasting Menu at $128++ per pax (ideal for those who want to try a bit of everything). All diners get served a little snack to start regardless - it was a tasty foie gras and vegetables pastry for us. The appetisers here can double up as small plates for sharing if you prefer a light meal - these are very affordably priced between $9++ and $28++. From this section, we ordered the salted cod fritters, mini sandwiches filled with pesto with parma and the caramelised onions and anchovy tart (to me, it’s more like a thin pizza as the light crust is a bit substantial). The two of us enjoyed them very much, along with the off-the-menu Barbajuan, pillows of pastry stuffed with spinach, swiss chard and ricotta that came compliments of Sous Chef Iswardy.
As the above was already really filling, T.H. and I opted for just one slice of the Porchetta. It’s a special of the day which Head Chef Louis Pacquelin had tempted us with when we were first seated. Served with some fresh salad, the Spanish suckling pig proved uber tasty. I found the generous stuffing of pistachios, Swiss chard, spinach, pork liver, cured pork fat, marjoram, parsley and chervil to be perfectly seasoned and so flavourful ($17++).
Throughout all this, the ever-cheerful Sommelier Justin Wee plied us with some great wine recommendations to accompany.
We had tummy space to split a single dessert and the housemade pistachio ice-cream with strawberries I picked was unbelievable. Highly recommended you order this if you are a fan of pistachio ice-creams because theirs is outstanding.
Service at BBR was good too - smart and friendly. We will definitely return.

Here’s a brand new creation by Chef de Cuisine Mirko, and it is an absolute winner in my book. Named “Autumn Harvest”, it showcases the vegetables of the season depending on what’s available on the day. The aromatic, luscious cream, composed of almond, quince and essentials oils, pairs very well with the inherent sweetness of the uber fresh produce.

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For my belated birthday treat from a friend, I chose One MICHELIN Starred Braci because the contemporary Italian restaurant has been on my list for ages.
We loved the housemade bread that was the first thing to arrive on our table. Named “Pane di Altamura”, it’s made using remilled durum wheat from Altamura in Italy’s Alpura region. It even has to pass the strict criteria of having a 3mm crust.
Following that, every one of the courses in the lunch set we had, was impeccable in presentation, freshness and flavours.
Both our appetisers, the raw Scallops dressed in rhubarb and fermented cherries, and the Baby Gem with white sesame and apple chutney, were superb. So too the mains of Veal Cappelletti (handmade pasta stuffed with truffle taleggio cooked in a sauce of 5 peppers jus) and the crisp-of-skin Italian Seabass (plated with pumpkin, radish and chard). Enormously gratifying in their own way they were.
Although the lunch set had only one dessert, it triggered wide-eyed wonder with its masterful combination of white chocolate, blood orange, pineapple and Yamazaki whisky.
Our wonderful meal came to a close with petit fours that were the embodiment of refinement and delectability.

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