I’ve only ever had @liaofanhawkerchan at one of their restaurant outlets before, and while I thought the soya sauce chicken was decent enough, it sure as hell didn’t deserve a Michelin star. This time, while wandering through Chinatown Complex, I noticed that the OG, original stall had a queue of three as opposed to the usual queue of fifty three. Well, it was a no brainer then, it was time to inspect how and why Liao Fan earned that coveted Michelin star.⠀

At six dollars & fifty cents flat for this plate of soya sauce chicken drumstick with an additional soya sauce wing, it certainly is an economical meal in a Singapore suffering from eight percent GST (not success). Not only is it an economical meal, it’s an excellent meal too. Compared to the more upscale outlets islandwide, the original Liao Fan’s chicken was superior in every way. ⠀

The skin was noticeably smoother and a darker shade of brown, and it could qualify as a work of art. The meat was markedly moister and softer, with even the breast part of the wing being suitably slippery. And the flavours, oh boy. The meat & skin were supremely savoury and sweet from the honey glaze brushed onto the skin post simmering, and were far more alluring with unmistakable aromas of hua tiao chiew (Shaoxing rice wine). All the flavours that the chicken from the outlet had were multiplied by a factor of five at the original stall, and topped off with that stupendously sapid soy sauce poured over the chicken? Yes, oh yes, this is one of the best birds this side of Chinatown.⠀

So, did Liao Fan ever deserve their Michelin star? Based solely off the chicken alone, I’m gonna be generous and say that yeah, Liao Fan/Hawker Chan deserved that Michelin star before they decided to chase the bag.

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