Didn’t expect myself to enjoy Surrey Hills Grocer’s airy fried dough ($22) as much as I did. A fun twist. Think crisp crumb-coated donut balls paired with drizzles of pistachio praline, strawberry compote, fresh berries, buttery crumbs, a scoop of raspberry sorbet (pleasantly tart and tangy but leaning slightly toward face puckering), and creme chantilly. Sweet, bright, nutty, fruity and refreshing.