In this day and age where it’s a norm for menus to undergo revamps on a regular basis, I can’t help but feel a sense of awe when I encounter a dish that‘s existed since the restaurant opened its doors nearly 18 years ago.
Meet the “Buko Nero Tau Kwa Tower” ($22.50+), an Italian-Asian creation that has stood the test of time and in my opinion, the fickleness of food trends. Sure, it may not be that groundbreaking compared to the fancier stuff presented by many younger chefs nowadays but this was revolutionary for its time and still tastes damn good when I had it for dinner tonight.
Like the mixed race couple who owns and runs this establishment, it is a lovely intermarriage. The tall stack is formed by two large pieces of local “tau kwa” (firm soya beancurd) layered with a sautéed mix of vegetables and enoki mushrooms, crowned with fresh salad leaves and finished with a drizzle of sweetish, non-spicy Asian style dressing.
What I loved about it then and now is how the humble “tau kwa”, tasked with a key role to play in this east-meets-west production, performs above and beyond expectations. The strength of its “international supporting cast” cannot be discounted either of course.