Never been a fan of this tentacled creature – I still can't bring myself to eat it raw, although exposure to excellently cooked renditions of it in the past couple of years has cajoled me into increasingly impressed acceptance.

So it is quite surprising, even to myself, to find that my favourite dish off Bridge's new "tapas" menu is this: tender slices of kombu-marinated octopus sous vide and presented in a dainty roulette layout, with molecular olive oil droplets, tobiko, frisee and yuzu salad. All the flavours of these harmonise seamlessly, resulting in an ultimately refreshing dish that I could have polished off on my own had I not been forced to share.