Eighty9’s version of dan dan, like its other dishes, sees a local twist. In place of tongue-numbing Szechuan peppercorns, find your noodles tossed in buzzy dried prawn chilli sauce, topped with aromatic siew yuk (more on this below) and peanut brittle. The addition of a childhood snack is clever, while adding a nice, nostalgic crunch.

The Aromatic Tossed Siew Yuk (RM12) is sublime on its own, sticking stubbornly to the dark, flavoursome glaze of thick soy and fried garlic. This same delight is sadly, lost on the noodle dish, muddled by too many overpowering flavours in the same bowl.