An absolute institution for bun cha, one of Hanoi's most famed street dishes. We were pointed to the third floor to be seated, accessed by a rickety old staircase, as they were pretty full. The meal consisted of grilled minced pork balls and slivers of belly, soaked in a sweet soup that you flavour with that concoction of chilli padi and chopped garlic to your liking. Comes with a pile of bún (vermicelli), perilla and lettuce, and nem cua bể (crispy crab spring rolls) that we carefully added a few drops of fish sauce to.