Considering this is a celebrity restaurant with prices to match, the set lunch seemed to be the most ideal way to sample the cuisine without burning too huge a hole in my pocket.
From the three sets designed to fit different appetite sizes, the "Menu Plaisir" at 698MOP (SGD$125) was the most appealing in my opinion as it included an amuse bouche, a soup, an appetiser, a main course, choice of either dessert or cheese from the respective trolleys, and coffee or tea.
Almost immediately after my order was taken by one waiter, another came bearing a huge basket with more than half a dozen types of bread. Simultaneously, a waitress pushed a trolley with two gigantic pillars of butter, one salted and other unsalted, right up to my table. She proceeded to carve off a huge curl of my preferred (salted, of course) for my bread-slathering ritual. It didn't take long for the amuse bouche to make its entrance after that.
Looking like a snapshot of synchronized swimmers, the appetite-whetter had smoked duck meat forming a cute pattern with the marshmallow and popcorn in the pool of thick yet light and slightly sweet corn soup. Although lovely, I thought the amuse bouche at L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon in Singapore still managed to trump this.
Next up - my appetiser, which was obviously inspired by a bird's nest. Tucked within a cluster of crispy wisps was a half-cooked egg that revealed a glorious orange yolk when I cut through it. A bed of the famous Robuchon silky-to-the-max mashed potato lay beneath. When eaten together with the creatively fried egg and fresh baby spinach, it gave every bite of this dish a great range of texture.
The soup course followed. My foamy yet richly concentrated seafood bisque was presented in a jug and poured into a cup-bowl at the table by the waiter. Two little bouncy squid balls encrusted with crunchiness accompanied it. Needless to say, I didn't waste a single drop or crumb.
I chose the Maine lobster pasta for my main (had to top up 90MOP/SGD$16 for this) and it proved to be the standout dish of the set lunch. Its spicy "coral" emulsion was like no other sauce I have had before. So pardon my inability to describe it apart from saying it's not tomato nor seafood bisque-based. I'm guessing there's "uni" (sea urchin) in there though but don't quote me as it's really a stab in the dark. What I do know is that it's complex and exuberantly "umami" with a surprising heat that hummed along as a baseline. In this vibrant richness wallowed perfectly al dente spaghetti while impressive chunks of Maine lobster that were sweet, springy and succulent to the nth degree, crowned it.
My eyes almost popped out of their sockets when the heavily-laden dessert trolley got wheeled over. You can imagine how tough it was to choose just two items from the tempting spread that included profiteroles, a large chocolate macadamia tart, a lemon meringue tart, rum baba, slices of "opera" cake, "floating island" with chocolate mousse and more. But I did; eventually settling on the restaurant's signature "mille-feuille" and a helping of fruit salad. The waiter, in a burst of generosity, also added a few cinnamon-grilled pineapple slices whilst doing the plating.
As though I wasn't already on cloud nine, my piping hot coffee had wonderful crema, and was served with two small pitchers - one containing cream and the other, caramel sauce. I must say, I loved how my shot of caffeine tasted with a bit of both stirred in.
The final hurrah? Another trolley, this one runneth over with all sorts of "mignardies" a.k.a. "petit fours". I was feeling so stuffed by then, managing to only fit in a chocolate marshmallow, an orange and almond crisp, some caramelised pistachios, plus a rose and raspberry cream lollipop.
When I was finally done with my meal, and had let my credit card do its job, I rolled off slowly into the sunset. Ok ok, not quite but close enough. 😆😆