(Media Tasting) I had been waiting eagerly to this as I’ve been a huge fan of Yum Hwa’s @benfatto_95 private dining for a few years. His obsession with making true-to-heritage Italian pastas, produces results so sublime, a bite of it can transport you straight to Italy. By him joining forces with The Cicheti Group to open @formasg, you can expect your tastebuds to traipse merrily across Italy even as your geotag shows Singapore.
Officially opening on 3rd May 2022, the upscale trattoria located along the quieter Tembeling Road in Joo Chiat, is a beacon - even more so once the sun sets as its tall glass frontage allows for a fantastic golden-lit view of Sfoglino (that’s the proper title for a maker of a family of pastas) Yum Hwa and @sfoglinadenisa at their craft. Young and old, an audience inevitably gathers to ogle in fascination as they work.
The menu is led by #BenFatto95’s pasta programme but I recommend not stopping there because the Secondi and dessert sections deserve stomach real estate too. Although concise, the former offers a selection of proteins including ever-changing meat options from neighbouring @butcherboxsg. And based on what we swiftly made disappear that night, the dessert game is also strong at #Formasg.
Then there’s the wine list. Curated by @ronaldkamiyama, it has over 150 labels spanning Italy’s 20 wine regions from Valle d’Aosta in the north to Campania in the south. Native and unfamiliar grapes such as the likes of Cesanese from Lazio, Nero di Troia from Puglia, and Schiopettino from Friuli, are showcased. That’s how @dominicswj ensured we paired every course with an exciting and unconventional pour.
We began with four Antipasti, led by Gnocco Frittos (fried parcels of lard-enriched dough with lardo and pink peppercorn) and braised baby artichokes in stracciatella with mint salsa verde, balsamic, braised blackcurrants, pine nuts and breadcrumbs ($21++). My faves though were the Cured and Cold-smoked Speck Ham plated with pan-roasted medjool dates, sea salt and extra virgin olive oil, and the Polpette di Baccalà ($21++) - lemon aioli-crowned Sicilian style fried salted cod and mashed potato balls with alepo and chilli.
After which we plunged into a parade of pastas.
Yum Hwa presented the Tortellini in Brodo, the “purest form of pasta” ($34++) first. An emblem of Emilia-Romagna's cuisine, each pork-filled parcel in the chicken broth contained exacting ratios of Mortadella di Bologna, Prosciutto Crudo, and Parmigiano Reggiano DOP. Knowing how much time and effort went into making enough Tortellinis to fill a bowl had me savouring this with mindfulness.
Next, the Struncatura Ammollicata ($32++). Long, bronze-extruded pasta cooked with simple ingredients of anchovies, taggiasca olives, chilli and Mollica di Pane-sauteed breadcrumbs that imbued it with a Mediterranean flavour profile. Fun fact: Before achieving cult status in Lucanian gastronomy, it was considered a “poor man’s dish” due to its origins.
Our third, the Pappardelle e Coda alla Vaccinara ($36++) has its roots in Rome, Lazio. The satisfying creation comprised of long and broad hand-rolled ribbons in a braised oxtail ragu of tomato, pecorino romano DOP and red wine.
Pasta number four, the Linguine al Limone ($29++), tied with the Tortellini in Brodo for top spot in my heart. Like the classic Cacio e Pepe, this seemingly simple dish has two key ingredients besides the bronze extruded pasta - the Amalfi Coast’s famous lemons and distinctively-shaped Provolone del Monaco DOP cheese. Along with a bit of garlic, they are what formed the luscious sauce. It is not a pasta for everyone but if you adore lemons and appreciate purity, do try it.
We were very impressed by our Secondi - the Merluzzo alla Scafata ($38++). The Umbrian-style pan-seared blue cod was a dream with its shatteringly crispy skin and moist flesh. It arrived in a lip-smacking cucielo vermouth-butter sauce with fava beans, English peas, cipollini onions and prosciutto.

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