As a tartare aficionado, I have tried innumerable permutations both classic and modern. This sits firmly in the latter category, with coarsely chopped chunks of raw beef coated in a savoury fermented chilli butter. The narcissism of small differences however, leads to the most boring conformity. What enamoured me were the crispy Savoy chips. Elated by its artistry; breathtaking in its minute scale, magnificent in its comprehension of flavour and texture, these petals of dehydrated cabbage seasoned with prune powder shattered satisfyingly with the slightest bite, exploding with a burst of sweet and sour flavour.