When they first opened about 10 years ago, I visited @lollasg (home of the much-copied uni and squid ink custard pudding) quite a few times. Then a slew of restaurant openings proved a huge distraction for a long stretch but lately, after seeing my foodie friend @safarislim keep sharing about his meals there, my curiosity about the current Head Chef @johanne_siyβs produce-driven Modern European style of cooking was piqued. So it didnβt take a hot minute before Steven booked lunch for @szeliang888, himself and I.
A recipient of 2021βs βChef of the Yearβ award by the prestigious @worldgourmetaward (WGA), Chef Joβs initial plan of a part-time gig at Lolla turned into something more permanent as Covid intervened. Lucky for us in Singapore, I say!
This lovely lady who left the corporate world a decade ago to follow her passion (it took her to renowned restaurants in different countries such as CafΓ© Boulud and Le Bernardin with Chef Eric Ripert in New York as well as Restaurant AndrΓ© in Singapore), puts out some brilliantly executed dishes with unerringly delicious flavours. All of her original creations are available in Lollaβs Seasonal Menu - either a la carte or in a Tasting format, alongside their regular one. We opted for the $195++ 9-course Tasting route (they do a 7-course for $158++ as well) and this is how it unfolded:
1. Spanner Crab, Spent Kombu, Alique (Crab Roe) - A big and unapologetically moreish opener that was umami meets bright.
2. Oyster - Tastiness: 100%. One of the standouts from the meal for me, it was charred before being accessorised with a foam of its own juices, cabbage and seaweed vinaigrette.
3. Squid βLinguineβ, Beech Mushrooms, Beef-Chorizo Bouillon - While the ribbons of squid were delightfully springy, it was the fragrant house-fermented black garlic-enhanced broth and the acidity from the pickled mushrooms that made the dish beautifully complex.
4. Hokkaido Scallop, Bouchot Mussels, Smoked Celeriac - A sublime symphony of seafood on fragrant celeriac purΓ©e and prawn broth. The pickles and sea fennel were well chosen complements.
5. Porcini, Mandilli di Seta, Mushroom Fricassee - Loved the contrast between the minimalist look and maximalist flavours of this unique take on mushroom pasta. The al dente sheet of pasta, velvety-rich mushroom sauce, clear broth and slices of raw mushrooms - they all came together gloriously.
6. Glazed Veal Sweetbread, Puffed Beef Tendon, Spiced Palm Vinegar - If you arenβt squeamish about eating exotic parts, hereβs a tastily done thymus gland glazed in Espagnole sauce and served with a crunchy beef tendon puff dusted in vinegar powder, chilli and lime zest.
7. Toasted Sourdough ($8++), Housemade Kombu Butter ($12++) - Not that we had much appetite real estate by this point in the meal but two of us couldnβt resist digging in when bossman @thaddeusyeo appeared with these.
8. Koji-cured Quail, Egg Yolk Confit, Black Truffles - Cutlery was redundant when it came to this. I found the quail immensely satisfying as it was grilled to juicy and tender perfection.
9. Strawberry Granita - My eyes widened when I had this palate cleanser. It seemed like the essence of the fruit was intensified but yet, it was not too sweet. Wouldnβt have minded a big bowl.
10. Black Truffle Gateau, Truffle Tree Nuts, Black Truffles - @szeliang888βs pick of dessert which he kindly shared a bite with @safarislim and I. The three-nut purΓ©e of chestnuts, macadamia and hazelnuts was really memorable.
11. Fallen Fruit - Steven and I selected this sweet and savoury wonder of a 3-month-vacuum-aged βBlack Appleβ which we enjoyed with an addictive Roasted Miso Ice-cream and toffee sauce.
Thank you Thaddeus,
Chef @johanne_siy and Team @lollasg: @blades.and.nibbles @alanquah522 @fireking555 @xmei2 for the impressive Seasonal Menu.