Igokochi Dining Bar (NEWest)

Normally, I’m indifferent to chicken kaarage on a Japanese restaurant menu, but @sakabaigokochi exceptional Chicken Kaarage ($10++) is so good that you need to order at least two portions. No seriously, these gargantuan globs of deep fried chicken are so divinely delicious that I was utterly mesmerised by every juicy bite.⠀
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The large chunks of chicken are deep fried till perfectly cooked, no mean feat considering the size & girth of each piece, yet all of them retain a reservoir of juice within, unleashing all that moisture the minute you bite into it. It’s seasoned simply yet sublimely with salt & white pepper, and each morsel of bird is utterly infused with savouriness. There seems to be a deeper, underlying layer of umami that permeates the chicken and makes it so satisfyingly delicious, and it might have something to do with the marinade these chickens are prepared in. I don’t know what Sakaba Igokichi is putting in the marinade, but they’re definitely doing it right.⠀
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And of course, the batter was breathtaking. A tremendously thin layer of batter coats every cut of chicken, and every bite elicits an audible crunch. The brilliant batter is crunchy, scrumptious and could easily be the gold standard for all fried chicken batter.⠀
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Despite being and sounding relatively simple, Sakaba Igokichi’s captivating Chicken Kaarage is simply spectacular. Instead of chomping on these chickens while you’re guzzling beer or sake, I propose that you pair these robustly flavoured poultry parts with an excellent Japanese whisky, like a Matsui Single Malt.⠀
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Look, we’ll never find out why the chicken crossed the road, but I definitely crossed the road for @sakabaigokochi divine Chicken Kaarage.

As for the Mini Yaki Soba ($9++), I had high hopes for it, but it was so shockingly salty I had to abandon it halfway. ‘Twas a shame too, as the yakisoba was loaded with lots of crunchy cabbage & slices of fatty pork, and swaddled in a delicate omelette blanket. Well, hopefully Sakaba Igokichi will have tweaked the recipe the next time I drop by for another boozy night of fabulous food & stellar sake.

Now, back to the more pressing issues at hand, like @sakabaigokochi Unagi Pressed Sushi ($19++). Carb-laden dishes like rice & noodles are crucial to every Japanese izakaya thanks to the alcohol munchies. However, Sakaba Igokichi has shied away from the usual donburis (rice bowls) and ramen in favour of pressed sushi, udon & yakisoba.⠀
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A half dozen massive wedges of unagi pressed sushi are arrayed on an equally massive plate, and the sense of scale is certainly not quite captured in this photo. Each piece of pressed sushi is a two biter minimum, and both are pretty big bites. The nicely grilled unagi has been glazed with enough sweet & salty teriyaki to fully flavour it as well as the lightly vinegary rice. An oft overlooked but crucial component of a good sushi is for the rice to be served at room temperature instead of hot or cold, and Sakaba Igokichi has absolutely nailed this. The cherry tomato & sprinkling of spring onion bring a pop of freshness to this savoury, starchy sushi, and it’s just begging to be washed down with more sake.

Beef sashimi is controversial, but if you stumble across a place that does it right like @sakabaigokochi, you’ll come to see the merits of raw beef like I did. Sakaba Igokochi’s Beef Tataki with Dashi Ponzu ($12++) is executed excellently, and I had no qualms with consuming the slices of almost raw beef.⠀
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The slices of beef were just lightly seared, and were tender and decently marbled with fat. Most of the flavour in the dish was provided by the dashi ponzu. It was salty & sour, an odd combo to have with beef, but it definitely grows on you. The salinity from the dashi makes the meaty flavours of the beef more pronounced, while the tanginess of the ponzu adds a refreshing, zesty twist to the beef.⠀
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Coupled with the crispy deep fried garlic chip on every slice of beef, the Beef Tataki hits all the necessary contrasts to make it a delicious dish. Soft beef, crispy garlic, salty & savoury beef & dashi, slightly sour ponzu, and the heat from the horseradish provided makes for an intriguing dish that must be tried at least once. Ponder upon the complexities of Beef Tataki while sipping sake, and you’ll have yourself a good time.

@sakabaigokochi Scallop & Avocado Tartare is insanely good value. This entire portion only cost me thirteen dollars before tax & service charge! Sliced avocado is absolutely smothered by an avalanche of diced scallop sashimi, topped with a spoonful of ikura (salmon roe), and sauced up with some soy sauce and some wasabi mayo if I remember correctly.⠀
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The scallop was astonishingly fresh, proven by its soft & supple texture, and it was sweet & slightly savoury. The ikura literally pops in with bursts of briny, umami juices to flavour the mild tasting scallops. The avocado added creamy richness to the mild tasting shellfish, and despite my initial reservations, the combination of creamy avocado, ikura & fresh scallops actually panned out. The soy sauce & wasabi mayonnaise aided with this, as the salty soy sauce was the essential source of salinity, while the wasabi mayo brought the heat to spice up your night. ⠀
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At just thirteen bucks a pop, this tremendous tartare is a must order with some house sake at @sakabaigokochi. The scallops are gonna be a superstar, I can feel it.

If you’re seeking something a little more muted but no less delicious, the Spinach & Fried Tofu Salad ($9++) will do right by you. Fresh, crunchy spinach is dressed in bountiful amounts of wasabi mayonnaise, and garnished with cherry tomatoes and fried tofu puffs. The raw spinach is a great palate cleanser with its vegetal, peppery flavour profile, and the strips of tofu puffs provide a nice, airy chew. However, the wasabi mayo dressing is what makes this salad delicious.⠀
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The wasabi mayo is creamy, salty and spicy, and it you get enough of it in a bite, you’ll feel the signature burn of wasabi right in your sinuses. Better yet, there’s more than enough of the wasabi mayo to go around, so don’t be shy about getting stuck into the awesome sauce.