Check out the Tagliatelle with beef shank, mushrooms and orange salmoriglio sauce ($28). This was rustic italian. The noodles are thin and floppy, ephemeral but with enough of a pronounced bite to stand up to the long-simmered beef ragu. The sauce is thick, and a medley of flavours, coming from a dozen different directions. Thankfully they knit into a single, vibrant chord of beef, tomato and red wine. The richness is contrasted with the acidic salmoriglio which ultimately make it as nice as you imagine it to be.

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