Once your teeth sink into a piece, your mouth explodes in a savoury melting chemistry of torched cheesy mayo and seared salmon, with sweet and umami unagi. It's such a big mouthful you have to keep your mouth shut and chewing until it's all down the throat. As you do, the flavours fight to overpower each other but keep fusing instead, until you peak. Rather than struggling to appreciate the individual flavours, appreciate it for its mess of flavours. A rojak roll of Japanese it is. Lingering smokiness gradually departs as you come down from the climax. Thus, your mouth is ready to close around the next big mouthful. That is the Shiok Maki ($16.80). http://herecomesgin.wixsite.com/ginwashere/single-post/2017/02/12/Koh-Grill-Sushi-Bar